Tahchin — Persian Baked Saffron Rice with Lamb or Beef
Tahchin is one of Persian cooking's great showpieces: a deep golden rice cake baked until its saffron-and-yoghurt crust shatters, revealing tender layers of slow-cooked meat and barberries within. Use lamb rib for a richer, more traditional result, or beef shoulder for a heartier alternative.
Ingredients
- 500g aged basmati rice
- 3 tbsp fine salt, divided (1 tbsp for soaking, 2 tbsp for boiling)
- 1 tsp saffron threads, ground and steeped in 4 tbsp hot water
- 700g lamb rib meat, cut into 4-5cm pieces (or 700g beef shoulder, cut into 4-5cm pieces — see note)
- 1 large onion, grated
- 2 bay leaves
- 6 black peppercorns
- 1 tsp ground turmeric
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon
- ½ tsp ground black pepper
- 250g full-fat plain yoghurt
- 2 egg yolks
- 60g unsalted butter, melted and divided
- 4 tbsp sunflower oil
- 2 tbsp zereshk (dried barberries), soaked in cold water for 10 minutes and drained
- Salt to taste
Method
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Wash the basmati rice in a large bowl, changing the water 5-6 times until it runs almost clear. Cover with fresh cold water, stir in 1 tbsp salt and soak for at least 2 hours, or overnight.
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Grind the saffron threads to a fine powder in a mortar (a pinch of sugar helps), then stir in the hot water and leave to bloom for at least 15 minutes.
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Place the meat in a heavy saucepan with the grated onion, bay leaves, peppercorns and turmeric. Cover with cold water, bring to a simmer, skim well and cook covered over a low heat — lamb rib for 1 hour, beef shoulder for 1 hour 45 minutes — until tender but not falling apart. Remove the meat and leave to cool slightly, then season with cinnamon, black pepper and salt. Reserve the broth.
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Bring 3 litres of water and 2 tbsp salt to a rolling boil in a large pot. Drain the soaked rice, add it to the boiling water and parboil for 5-7 minutes, stirring gently once or twice, until the grains have lengthened and are soft on the outside but still firm in the centre. Drain in a large sieve and rinse briefly with lukewarm water.
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In a large bowl, whisk together the yoghurt, egg yolks, half the saffron water, half the melted butter and a generous pinch of salt. Fold in roughly one-third of the parboiled rice until evenly coated. This mixture forms the crust.
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Preheat the oven to 200°C / 180°C fan / gas 6. Place a 26-28cm heavy-based ovenproof pot or Dutch oven over a medium heat on the hob. Add the oil and remaining butter and heat until shimmering. Spread the yoghurt-rice mixture over the base and up the sides of the pot, pressing it into an even layer about 2cm thick.
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Lay the pieces of meat evenly over the yoghurt-rice base, then scatter over the drained barberries. Spoon the remaining plain parboiled rice on top, mounding it gently. Drizzle the remaining saffron water and 3 tbsp of the reserved meat broth over the top layer.
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Cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid, or seal tightly with foil then the lid. Cook on the hob over medium-high heat for 5 minutes until you hear a sizzle from the base, then transfer to the preheated oven and bake for 55-65 minutes until the crust is deep golden and pulls away from the sides.
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Remove from the oven and stand the base of the pot in 2cm of cold water in the sink for 3 minutes to help release the crust. Run a palette knife around the edges, place a large warmed serving plate over the pot and invert firmly in one confident movement. The tahchin should unmould as a golden cake. If any crust sticks, lift it out and press it back into place. Serve immediately, cut into wedges.